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Imagine a world where every bite you take is not only delicious but also contributes to a healthier planet. That’s the magic of sustainable gastronomy, a movement that is taking the culinary scene by storm. Forget about bland, hippie stereotypes – sustainable gastronomy is all about creativity, conscious choices, and a whole lot of flavor.
We spent some time with board members Lise Timmer and Courtney Brandt to find out more about this ethical, sustainable movement, how the culinary world has embraced it, and what potential challenges are arising.
So, why is sustainability such a big deal in the food world? Our current food system comes with a hefty environmental price tag. From deforestation for industrial agriculture to the mountains of food waste generated, it’s clear that we need a change. Sustainable gastronomy tackles these issues head-on by promoting practices that are good for our taste buds and the Earth.
As consumers become more educated about environmental impact and sustainable options become more widely available, the willingness to pay for sustainability in restaurants is likely to continue to grow. From the experience of Lise, CEO of Chefs’ by Lise Timmer, offering an exceptional restaurant experience, at any level and in terms of service, food, and design is no longer enough to attract and retain guests. The impact of sustainability measures varies greatly from country to country. They choose to stay away from those that do not align with what they value. Research shows that guests are increasingly willing to pay more for sustainable business, and restaurants that fail to do so will lose them, with all the consequences that entail. However, willingness to pay differs across generations and by factors including location, personal values, income, and perception of the importance of sustainability.
While organizing various fabulous dining experiences and gastronomic events, Lise also has to deal with different clients, who have their own way of doing things and their own philosophy about it. So, it is important to have a dialogue and find a way forward that is satisfactory for both parties. In order to do so, if necessary, Lise organises a meeting about sustainability and invites the team she works with to share their own ideas and any advice they may have.
Now, let’s get our hands dirty (well, figuratively!). Should high cuisine always be or become more sustainable nowadays and how exactly are restaurants and food producers embracing this movement?
According to Courtney Brandt, culinary consultant, journalist, and host, haute cuisine has a crucial role to play in the sustainable gastronomy movement. For many years, fine dining has been associated with exotic ingredients and elaborate presentation, all of which can have a significant ecological footprint. However, sustainable practices like local sourcing and waste minimization can significantly reduce this impact. Ethical sourcing is another crucial element, as luxury dining should ensure its ingredients are correctly sourced and do not contribute to environmental degradation or unfair labor practices. “In my opinion, the best restaurants encourage responsible sourcing that protects ecosystems and communities. I’ve been fortunate to visit locations that work with a hyper-local supply chain and change their menus to reflect seasonal availability, thus cutting down the need for expensive shipping or increasing the overall carbon footprint,” shares Courtney.
Furthermore, today’s discerning diners are increasingly concerned about sustainability. Haute cuisine that embraces these values can attract a more conscious clientele and project a positive brand image. Sustainability also doesn’t and shouldn’t limit culinary creativity. It can inspire chefs to find new ways to utilize local ingredients and minimize waste, leading to exciting and innovative dishes. The future of haute cuisine likely lies in embracing a more sustainable approach, which can also include a stronger push towards plant-based menus rather than traditional proteins. Restaurants that prioritize this approach will be better positioned to thrive in a world with growing environmental concerns.
Courtney believes that while achieving Michelin stars or creating visually stunning presentations will likely remain essential in haute cuisine, these goals shouldn’t come at the expense of the environment. Sustainable practices can become integral to the fine dining experience, making it even more impressive and responsible.
In this regard, what challenges might culinary projects face in achieving full sustainability? Answering the question Lise explains: “Where once sustainability was a buzzword, it is now an integral part of many negotiations and often an essential element in deciding whether or not to open a restaurant. The call for restaurants to adopt sustainable practices has continued to grow over the past decade. These practices have often become an integrated part of a restaurant’s vision and contribution to its community. Innovative waste monitoring technologies have become as easy to use as pressing a few buttons on a smartphone, helping to motivate chefs to find creative uses for once-discarded products. Local governments and utility companies have offered financial and equipment incentives to restaurants that agree to install energy- or water-efficient equipment or to adopt other sustainable practices. Also, important and motivating are surveys that show that consumers look more favorably at restaurants that promote green practices.
However, the transformation of the restaurant business model to incorporate sustainable practices has not been and will not be easy but there is no going back, whatever the level, location or type of restaurant. We still have small independent restaurateurs who cannot cope with the daily pressures of business. For them, there is a much more tangible and immediate impact of an overdue produce bill or a sudden drop in brunch business.”
Moving further down the geographic spectrum, the Middle East, where Courtney is currently based, is showing a growing commitment to the sustainable food movement, but many projects still face challenges. The region’s natural limitations, such as scarce water resources and a hot climate, make traditional agriculture difficult. Implementing water-efficient technologies like drip irrigation and utilizing drought-resistant crops are crucial but require investment and expertise from local governments. Certain ingredients might not be readily available locally year-round. Sourcing them from afar increases the carbon footprint and challenges complete reliance on local produce. Unfortunately, sustainable practices like vertical farming or renewable energy sources often involve higher initial costs than traditional methods.
Furthermore, shifting consumer habits towards embracing sustainable options can take time. There might be a preference for certain imported ingredients or a resistance to unfamiliar, alternative proteins. Courtney believes overcoming the challenges of sustainable gastronomy in the Middle East requires a united front. Collaboration between chefs, farmers, policymakers, and consumers is not just beneficial; it’s essential.
Regarding the Middle East’s influence and impact on the global sustainable gastronomy movement, Courtney says: “While our carbon footprint might be slightly larger than that of other locations, it gives us more to overcome. Yes, the GCC might have a reputation for excess, but the area is starting to tackle food waste. In the UAE and beyond, major hotel chains like Hilton are making massive progress. In collaboration with Winnow and Ne’ma, in a recent pilot project in 2023, the Hilton team recorded a 62% reduction in food waste. Beyond food waste, there has been an increased trend toward sourcing locally. Amazing oysters can be found in Dibba Bay, and we even have mushrooms grown at Below Farm.
Beyond reducing food waste and sourcing locally, the prestigious Michelin Guide introduced a Green Star distinction in fine dining specifically for restaurants committed to sustainable practices. The guide, currently found in Dubai (and shortly Doha), recognizes restaurants that embrace and promote sustainable gastronomy. I am always proud to mention our current three Michelin Green stars: BOCA, Teible, and LOWE. All three restaurants are at the edge of sustainability efforts. Of course, this is not an exhaustive list of venues and outlets that are committed to sustainable practices.”
Courtney’s personal recommendation to our readers and members of the LLA community to visit BOCA while in Dubai: “They’ve been working on sustainability for many years and lead not just in the F&B market but also in other industries. Whether it’s incorporating desert plants, seasonal menus, working with local vendors, or being the first to introduce local products to the market, the food is delicious, and the entire team is committed to education around sustainable practices. The approach is not just in food but also in the wine and mixology program. The bar team works with the kitchen to integrate kitchen waste into (delicious) drinks. The sommelier and wine team often import regional and biodynamic wines, giving customers a holistic view of an overall “green” experience. Finally, when collaborating with out-of-town guests, the visiting chefs or brands always align with the BOCA sustainability mission. I honestly feel lucky to live in a town where I get to enjoy their talent.”
Sustainable gastronomy isn’t about deprivation; it’s about making informed choices. It’s about celebrating the seasons, supporting local communities, and minimizing our environmental impact – all while creating unforgettable culinary experiences. So, the next time you sit down for a meal, remember that every bite can be a delicious step towards a more sustainable future.
Feeling inspired? Explore your local farmers’ markets, research sustainable restaurants in your area, or try your hand at zero-waste recipes. Remember, even the smallest changes can make a big difference. Let’s redefine gastronomy – together, one delicious, sustainable bite at a time.
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